Battersea Park & the Peace Pagoda

Battersea Park, a lush 200-acre green space on the south bank of the River Thames, lies across from Chelsea in London’s Wandsworth Borough. Opened in 1858, the park has a rich history, starting with its transformation from the marshy Battersea Fields, once known for duelling. Most famously, in 1829, the Duke of Wellington and the Earl of Winchilsea settled a duel here, though neither fired with intent to harm. Before becoming a park, the area was a patchwork of fertile land, growing crops like asparagus (the well-known “Battersea Bunches”), lavender, carrots, and melons. The riverside was dotted with industrial sites, wharves, railways, and a famously rowdy tavern frequented by Charles Dickens.

The park came into being through the Battersea Park Act of 1846, with Parliament approving £200,000 to purchase land for a new royal park. Sir James Pennethorne designed the park, although it wasn’t until the completion of Chelsea Bridge that his vision began to take shape. Battersea Park officially opened in 1858, with Victoria Road (now Queenstown Road) and Prince of Wales Drive marking its boundaries. By 1889, management of the park shifted to the London County Council.

The park has witnessed many historic events, including the first football match played under FA rules in 1864. Wanderers F.C., winners of the first FA Cup in 1872, also called Battersea Park their home. In 1866, the park hosted the historic London v Sheffield football match.

A poignant addition came in 1924 with the unveiling of the 24th Division War Memorial, created by Eric Kennington. This Grade II* listed memorial commemorates over 10,000 soldiers killed or missing in World War I.

During both World Wars, the park took on new roles. Anti-aircraft guns and barrage balloons were installed to defend London from air raids, and parts of the park were turned into allotments for growing vegetables. A pig farm even sprung up as part of the war effort.

In 1951, as part of the Festival of Britain, the park’s northern section was transformed into the “Pleasure Gardens.” The makeover included water gardens, fountains, and the popular “Tree Walk,” a series of wooden platforms suspended in the trees. The funfair, with its famous Big Dipper rollercoaster, was a major attraction until tragedy struck in 1972. A ride accident led to the deaths of five children, after which the funfair was permanently closed. The area where the fair once stood is now used for exhibitions and events, and it is currently home to the Battersea Evolution event space. In my youth, my friends and I used to climb the fence and enjoy the funfair for free.

Battersea Park has also been a cultural hub. In 1978, it hosted a massive punk rock concert featuring The Stranglers, Peter Gabriel, and The Skids, which became notorious when audience members began stripping during the show. The park has also been a popular filming location; most notably, it doubled for St James’s Park in the 1996 film *101 Dalmatians*.

Several notable features mark the park today. The London Peace Pagoda, maintained by a Buddhist monk and built in 1985, is serene near the river. A statue commemorating the Brown Dog affair, which sparked historic debates over animal vivisection, stands in the Woodland Walk. Battersea Park also houses a small children’s zoo, a boating lake, a bandstand, sports facilities, and the Grade II listed Pump House Gallery.

Over the years, Battersea Park has undergone numerous changes and upgrades. In 2002–2004, a major £11 million refurbishment, partially funded by the Heritage Lottery Fund, restored parts of the park. In 2011, the Winter Garden, designed by Dan Pearson Studios, was opened, adding yet another green oasis within the park.

The park has continued to evolve with installations such as  After 9/11, a sculpture commemorating the victims of the September 11th attacks, unveiled by Boris Johnson in 2011. Additionally, it hosted one of the national Foodies Festivals in 2012, drawing crowds with masterclasses from chefs like Levi Roots and Ed Baines.

With its natural beauty, history, and modern attractions, Battersea Park remains vital to London’s green spaces, offering tranquillity, sports, and culture in one historic location.