Southwark Cathedral

Southwark Cathedral, also known as The Cathedral and Collegiate Church of St Saviour and St Mary Overie, sits on the south bank of the River Thames, near London Bridge. It’s the mother church of the Diocese of Southwark, but it wasn’t recognized as a cathedral until 1905. Despite its recent status as a cathedral, the site has been a place of Christian worship for over a millennium.

Between 1106 and 1538, the church of an Augustinian priory was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, called Southwark Priory. The name “Mary Overie” comes from its location “over the river” to distinguish it from the many churches with the same name on the other side of the Thames in the City of London. When King Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries, the church became a parish church under a new dedication to the Holy Saviour (St. Saviour). Originally part of the Diocese of Winchester, Southwark didn’t become its diocese until it was transferred to Rochester in 1877.

There’s an old tale recorded by historian John Stow, who heard from the last prior, Bartholomew Linsted, that the church was founded by a woman named Mary. Mary, he claimed, used the profits from a ferry service across the Thames to establish a convent long before the Norman Conquest. However, later historians have debated the validity of this story, suggesting that a noble named Swithen, or perhaps the famous Bishop Swithun of Winchester, had a hand in its creation.

Despite doubts about its early history, by 1106, Southwark had been refounded as an Augustinian priory, and its architecture has undergone many changes since. The oldest parts of the current structure date to between 1220 and 1420, making it one of the earliest examples of Gothic architecture in London. Today's building is largely a reconstruction, as the original nave was rebuilt in the 19th century.

Fires played a significant role in shaping Southwark’s history. A major blaze in 1212 damaged the church, which was gradually rebuilt during the 13th century. By the 1390s, another fire ravaged the building, and Bishop Henry Beaufort helped rebuild the south transept and finish the tower around 1420. The tower still stands as one of the defining features of the cathedral.

The cathedral’s literary connections are also impressive. John Gower, a 14th-century poet, lived nearby and is buried in the church, where his ornate memorial still stands. Shakespeare’s brother Edmund was also buried there, though his grave is unmarked. William Shakespeare is commemorated with a large stained-glass window and a statue in the cathedral. Other notable figures, such as dramatists John Fletcher and Philip Massinger, were also laid to rest within its walls.

John Harvard, the man after whom Harvard University is named, was baptized in the church in 1607. His connections to Southwark run deep, as his father was a local butcher and inn-holder. Today, Harvard is commemorated by a chapel named after him in the cathedral.

During the English Reformation, the church remained under the influence of the bishops of Winchester. Lancelot Andrewes, one of the translators of the King James Bible, was buried in the church. His tomb was initially placed in a small chapel but later moved closer to the high altar.

Southwark Cathedral has witnessed significant changes over the centuries. By the 19th century, the church had fallen into disrepair. The nave roof had become unsafe, and in 1839, it was demolished and rebuilt. The interior was heavily altered, and much of the medieval architecture was lost. It wasn’t until Anthony Thorold, the Bishop of Rochester, led efforts to restore the nave between 1890 and 1897 that it regained some of its former Gothic style.

Modern Southwark Cathedral sits in the shadow of a large railway viaduct constructed in 1852, which blocks the view from the south side. Despite these changes, the cathedral remains a vital part of the community. The churchyard, closed to burials in 1853, was transformed into a peaceful garden, and the cathedral has become an important cultural and spiritual hub.

During World War II, Southwark suffered severe damage from German bombing. Shrapnel damage is still visible on the building today, a reminder of the heavy toll London faced during the war. Yet, despite the damage, the cathedral has remained resilient, and new developments mark its post-war history. Nelson Mandela visited the cathedral in 2001 to open a new cloister that includes a refectory, shop, conference centre, education centre, and museum.

Southwark Cathedral has also embraced modern inclusivity, especially regarding its support for the LGBTQ+ community. It hosted a 20th-anniversary service for the Lesbian and Gay Christian Movement in 1996, stirring some controversy. Today, the cathedral continues to offer support and preparation for same-sex couples entering civil partnerships, stating that LGBTI+ individuals are welcomed and affirmed in the church community.

The cathedral also has academic ties. London South Bank University, Regent’s College, and King’s College London all use it for graduation ceremonies. Southwark Cathedral is also linked to Guy’s and St Thomas’ hospitals, with historical ties to the medieval priory of St Mary Overie.

A beloved resident cat named Doorkins Magnificat became a fixture at the cathedral in 2008. Initially a stray, she soon made the church her permanent home. Named as a playful nod to atheist Richard Dawkins, Doorkins became a local celebrity, even meeting Queen Elizabeth II. After she retired in 2019 and passed away in 2020, the cathedral held a memorial service for her, which attracted media attention. Following Doorkins, the cathedral adopted a new cat named Hodge, a tuxedo cat. Like his predecessor, Hodge has become a popular figure in his own right, complete with his social media presence and souvenirs in the cathedral shop.

Southwark had a very poor reputation, particularly in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, for Bating pits, gaming dens and brothels. This was due, in part, to the fact that these activities were banned from the City of London. All brothels in the area were licenced by the Bishop of Winchester, who received the “benefits” of these “immoral” trades. Prostitutes in the area were known as Winchester Geese. Thus there were streets named Slut’s Hole, Whore’s Nest, Love Lane and Maiden Lane.

 There was a notorious prison here, known as The Clink, from 1144 to 1780. It was here that Charles Dickens’s father was imprisoned for debt. The prison was razed to the ground during the Catholic riots of 1780 and never rebuilt, and none of the released prisoners were recaptured.

It is adjacent to the remains of Winchester Palace. The Palace, consecrated by Bishop Henry de Blois, was conveniently close to the river, Westminster and the Royal palaces when London became the capital of England. It was destroyed by fire in 1814.